Nigel Slater: Welcome to OFM's July issue

Nigel Slater photographerd at home by Karen Robinson for Observer Food Monthly Photograph: Karen Robinson

Have you ever wondered which is the easiest way to perfectly fillet a fish? Or make the smoothest mashed potato? Maybe you have dreamed of having the know-how to produce the most authentic fried chicken, full English breakfast, or the dexterity to roll an elegant piece of sushi. And what is the trick to cutting the most elegant cucumber sandwich or feeding yourself and a child for a tenner a week?

This month, in our special How To issue, we have asked the experts to answer all those questions for us. We may not have answers to every kitchen question you ever wanted to ask, but we hope we can shed a light on a few useful tricks and techniques.

The biggest cookery show currently on our television screens involves neither the antics of a household name celebrity, nor is it dominated by professional chefs. There is no campaigning and good causes, no one wagging their fingers because we don't do things their way. It is simply a programme where we are invited to watch gentle people make cakes. Well, more than cakes, actually. They make buns, tarts, gateaux, bread and doughnuts. They make petits fours and cheesecakes, tortes and cupcakes, scones and the occasional bap. It is food that most of us would like to eat. No. Scratch that. This is food that most of us would love to eat, the sort you only make for someone you love. And that, plus the extraordinary pairing of Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood is why the show remains one of our favourites. Yes, The Great British Bake Off is back, and that makes me a very happy man.

We also have Jamie Cullum, Jay Rayner and Rachel Cooke, not to mention a few ideas from me for the perfect summer lunch with seafood and seasonal fruits. Bring your own buttercup meadow.

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Nigel Slater pea recipes

The good and Green: peas and watercress with soldiers of the shrimp soup. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

Peas are winding made their frames rusted, strung together here and there and Twine garden and doing well in this weather mixed season. I have planted not for a culture to be autonomous in green peas, but eating on the hoof, before that they never reach the kitchen. You need space to grow enough peas for more than a couple of Sunday roasts.

But them I do grow. Those who escape in wolfed in the garden will be rotated, raw, in salads of York Ham with a mustard and olive oil dressing or a toss-up torn of smoked mackerel, croutons, pea shoots. This last ingredient was, until recently, leaf salad secret from the House of the gardener, tendrils curling adorning many a salad of allotment. Popularity of the pea shoot is not without good reason. Light, edible stems, a sweet, flavor of the pea green and enough on the plate, it is a delicious addition to the salad bowl.

Peas work rather well with watercress, too. The spicy watercress leaf is what makes a sound addition to a pea salad, beans and, say, warm Roasted chicken. Add watercress to soup peas and you will present a depth of taste only peas cannot produce. The slight heat of these leaves takes over-sweet edge offshore from a pure pea soup. I can not imagine how many peas you need pod for a pot of soup peas home.?It may be the reason why I have in bulk my Green soups on watercress, lettuce and potatoes.

This week, I made enough soup peas to feed an army, in part for a soup that I have served with toasts crunchy and shrimp flavor of nutmeg and partly use the day after as the basis for a green risotto. Using the soup instead of stock gave my rice an exceptionally velvety texture. The color is vibrant, the flavor deep and much richer than if I just add peas to a simple risotto. Only the key of pedant in me prevented me to call this textured rice soupy risotto.

Frozen peas are an alternative good quality-price ratio and instant soup charges. I use them all the time. But what Miss me is shelling peas from their pods, the decline in soft eye of fresh peas, fall into the colander, Sit-Down 15 minutes in the garden, the handle which disappear in my mouth that I work and pop quiet pods as I press them with my thumb. I will never hit the usefulness of an air bag, but how remiss in my row of peas, stem thin wire curling tour Cannes, their leaves of butterfly-wing and the tightening of the fresh green of their pods.

Brilliant Emerald soup to be served hot or cold, with seafood soldiers on the side. If you decide to serve it cold, then cool it completely, add an ice cube, because it comes to the table. Cold soups should always be just that - cold. For 4 people.

medium-sized shallots 2
olive oil 1 tbsp
weight of 500 g peas pod
1 liter of vegetable broth
Cresson a bunch

Peel the shallots and chop them finely, then cook in oil over moderate heat until they are tender and translucent. Tip in the peas and stock, then stir and let simmer for five minutes.

Put peas and liquid in a food processor or blender and blitz until smooth, add the watercress and continue processing until smooth, then return to the rest of the soup. In this way will give you a slightly textured, more interesting than a smooth soup. Check seasoning and serve with shrimp below toasts.

I used mace here. Its sweet, earthy note, is what gives most brands of shrimps in pot their characteristic taste. If buy you it specifically for this it must be remembered to use for pasta and pork terrines and even shrimp cocktail. For 4 people.

150 g Shell shrimp
50 g of butter
Mace a pinch
baguette 1 a small

Roughly chop the shrimp. Cube butter and crush them in chopped shrimp. Season with black pepper and Mace.

Slice the baguette. Spread shrimp on bread butter and bake it in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 c/gas 6 thermostat or cooking under a general grill if you prefer. Serve with soup from peas (above).

Nigel Slater hearty green pea rice. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

Made in the same way as risotto, this cheap dish made of rice filled with soup and not in stock. Retains the freshness of the pea soup, it is richer and more durable. I like to serve this with shoots of pea raw seasoned with olive oil and lemon and piled on the cooked rice. 2-3 Servings.

1 small onion
butter a thick slice
150 g of Arborio rice
pea soup 400 ml (above)
vegetable broth a little

Peel and chop the onion very finely, then cook it in butter over medium heat until soft but still pale and unstained. Add the rice, stir for a few seconds, then slowly pour in the soup. Stir regularly, exactly as if you were doing a risotto with stock, until the rice looks soft but still has a little bite to it. Add the hot broth as needed if the mixture seems too thick. Check the seasoning. I sometimes like to incorporate a bit of butter at the end.

Nigel an email at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk

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Nigel Slater: welcome to OFM's June issue

Nigel Slater photographerd at home by Karen Robinson for Observer Food Monthly Photograph: Karen Robinson

In this month's OFM, Kitty Travers of La Grotta Ices gets to grips with the raspberry ripple. An unapologetically nostalgic ice cream, the raspberry ripple has a secure place in my memory as the ultimate summer treat. The ice cream that carries with it the very essence of carefree, seemingly endless summer holidays, of the countryside and the sea. It is a childhood summer in a cone. Kitty's ices are special. They are made with fresh fruit, in season, and in small quantities. Of all the ices she could have perfected for us, the raspberry ripple is the one I was hoping for.

Of course, one ice cream does not make a summer, so we sent Gizzi Erskine to hunt out the best core summer foods from the high street. She came back with scotch eggs and taramasalata, pork pie and quiche. Gizzi gives us the lowdown on what to pack for an instant picnic.

As always, we have a clutch of recipes for you. Polpo's Florence Knight has allowed us a preview of some of the recipes in her new book, One: A Cook and Her Cupboard. I have been working on ideas for some quick, stress-free summer dishes that take less time to prepare than they do to eat.

Summer is not just about eating, and neither is OFM, so we have plenty of drinks in store, too. We have been working hard at selecting some of the very best wines for drinking outdoors, including some great roses and, of course, the best fizz.

We also have Jay Rayner on kids cooking at home, lunch with the ex-head of MI5, Stella Rimington, and I should also mention that this is your last chance to vote in this year's Food Monthly Awards. So if there is a retailer, cook, producer or place that you feel deserves recognition, then now is your opportunity. Our awards are your awards, so now is the time to join in. Get your votes in this week. OFM

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New recipes by Nigel Slater potato

Let the sun shine: new potatoes from Nigel Slater with hazelnuts recipe. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

New potato season is at our gates: these tiny, unscreened tubers that are as much a part of the British summer strawberries and asparagus. If you dig them up the garden, pick them out of a dry-cleaner bag or stuff a box plastic of them in your shopping cart, you're almost certainly a treat. Good they are when steamed or boiled and seasoned with butter and chopped parsley, they respond well to thinking more imagination, too.

There are several varieties sold as "new potatoes", the most venerable is the Jersey Royal. Most large supermarkets sell these young ready potatoes washed and packed in plastic bags. Scaly skin and fine, removed Earth, potatoes lose part of their magic for me. Be able to choose your own is more my style, giving you a chance to get to the smallest, whose skin is still moist and flaky. Those to serve conventionally, their still intact thin skin, sliding with butter and freckles with parsley as fine as the tea leaves. (A bowl of steaming Jersey Royals is almost the only time that I chop parsley very finely).

Steam is an option for any type of new potatoes, but I remain skeptical and mine bake in water deep and almost as salty as you would use for boiling pasta. I seriously doubt the sanity of anyone who peels away the new potatoes. The skin is tender, tasty and so thin you could rub off it with your thumb.

A few "new" potatoes are no such thing. Many are simply small potatoes with skins thick and tight and even the odd eye. They taste no better than a large main crop potato and do not have the quality dry and mealy great that make these fluffy mash and roast. Throw everything that you have on them - throw them in melted butter, their shower with salt, dip into cream fresh and chopped chives or Chervil.

A true new potatoes or Jersey Royal must almost no embellishment. I like a thin layer of soft, almost melted butter, but even this is not necessary. I'll take the Mint very despised option, too, either by adding three strands to the cooking water, or by folding in a Dutch Mint butter or herb. They need without pepper.

You can roast a new potato, too, in which case his flesh shall on the texture of fudge. Sweet little nuggets to sit next to a piece of baked salmon or a rack of lamb. Salt and Rosemary are a good idea. Add Pink garlic of the new season, nestled among the tatties as they roast. They never fight a big roastie Sunday, but these are for another occasion. Alternatively, you can fry a new potato. Steam or boil them first, then Brown in a dish deep foaming butter. They colored deliciously and nutty quality will be highlighting, but it is unlikely the accuracy. No matter, they will be fabulous.

Sometimes, I have added to their nutty flavor by throwing pine nuts or hazelnuts into the Pan because they FRY. Potato soft, Golden and the scrunch of nuts is pleasing enough, but we have recently added a few deep-golden yolks, release of a pan of crisp sauteed Jersey Royals, finish briefly under the broiler until yolks have been hot but still oozingly liquid. It adds a touch of summer sun.

When the new potatoes are roasted, they take a texture soft, fudgy, making it especially suited to a crisp as partner for example here, toasted hazelnuts. This is suitable for a light lunch with a Frisee salad, or even as a side dish. 2-4 Persons.

500 g new potatoes
75 g butter
peanut or olive oil
100 g hazelnuts
chopped chives 4 tbsp
egg yolks 4

Wash and coarsely chop the potatoes. Heat butter with a couple of glugs of oil in a dish to roast on a moderate heat, add the potatoes, then let them FRY at a gentle sizzling carefully Brown everywhere.

Roughly chop the hazelnuts, add them to the potatoes and let them colour slightly, then lightly season with salt, pepper and chives and tip them into a dish in the oven.

Break the eggs and the yellows of immerse potatoes then place under a hot grill for 3-4 minutes until the yolks are hot but not together.

New potatoes, tuna salad and cucumber by Nigel Slater. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

Rethink the summer classic. More than canned tuna are now labeled from sustainable sources, but it is worth. 2 Servings.

250 g new potatoes
cucumber 1 medium
a pinch of powdered sugar
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Spoon 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard
olive oil 1 tbsp
2 tbsp dill , chopped
Nicoise olives 4 tbsp
125 g of tuna in olive oil

Wipe the potato, remove any loose flocons flakes of skin, Cook then in a large quantity of salted water until just tender. Lightly Peel the cucumber, coupees cut in half lengthwise, then scrape the seeds and pulp from the Center with a teaspoon, reserving them for the dressing. Cut the cucumber into finger thick pieces and place in a large mixing bowl.

Make the dressing: put a pinch of sugar powder in a blender or food processor, add the vinegar, mustard, a pinch of salt and pepper and reserved seeds and the cucumber pulp. Pour the olive oil and the blitz briefly to a smooth sauce. Tip in the cucumber, add the chopped dill and stir.

Drain the potatoes, then cut each of them into about four thick pieces. While potatoes are warm, add them to the cucumber and toss with the dressing. Drain the tuna canned and basically add pieces, turning all carefully so they are evenly coated. Sprinkle on olives.

Nigel an email at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk

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Lunch in the open air of Nigel Slater recipes

Queen of Tarts: asparagus and pie Roquefort. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

Lunch, at least at the end of week, moved to the garden. To be more precise, it has left the kitchen table for a under a tree, where we can eat outdoors, but hidden by the glare of the Sun.

For eating out, I like the idea of a dish of great service of food rather than do battle with trying to get individual portions of hob at the garden. More than that, I like the idea of food passed around the table from one person to another, with each taking only what they want. I appreciate the informality of a meal served in this way. The person next to you the hand of food and there is an immediate feeling of sharing.

There is very little plates in this House big enough to be declared a 'flat '. Maybe a couple who held enough food for six or eight, even if it is many trays to a song of second hand. But there are other possibilities, a size of around Brie tart, from the kitchen on its base pot, presented with a knife for each person to cut what they want. Served cake first pass-the-parcel, or, easier style, a huge bowl full of original and unusual fruit salad. All your friends can plunge as they wish.

Savoury summer tart is still a success for this type of meal: it can be cooked before friends arrive (the dough can even be made the day before), it can be kept warm without coming to grief and the remains are very well served cold the next day.

Summer savory pie fillings are different from what I do for a fall or winter. Onions that I Cook slowly until that sweet and amber are replaced, if used at all, by Rose-rinse the fine cut spring onions. The herbs will be more delicate and probably based on anise: Chervil or tarragon instead of thyme or finely chopped Rosemary. The linings will be of summer vegetables and seafood, such as crab - using Brown - and white meat or salmon and watercress. Sweet flavors, delicate colours.

Last week, I had a tasty pie deep in Helsinki, I ordered more out of curiosity than anything else. Asparagus works so well in a fill with quiche, but blue cheese, too? My assumption that cheese could suffocate almost shy flavour of grass 'Sparrow' disproved. The result was sublime, so I'm bringing the idea of home. And I serve it in all its glory not circumcised, so that everyone can go home, cutting each other, as they wish, then pass to another. A dish to get everyone talking and, above all, sharing.

You can use the Roquefort, of course, but the other blues such as Stichelton, Stilton, Beenleigh and Crozier will work just fine, too. Use everything seems good. Due to the deep flavor, you need very little. Need you a pie Pan 22cm with a removable base. The basis of the dough should be quite peppery, but is calmed by the custard filling. Serves 8.

For the dough:
90 g butter , cold fridge
150 g all-purpose flour
egg yolk 1
black pepper 1 tablespoon very coarsely ground coffee

For the filling:
12 asparagus
300 ml double cream
eggs 2
Roquefort or other blue cheese 200 g

Make the dough. Cut the butter into small cubes and rub it into the flour with the fingertips, or reduce to fine crumbs in a food processor. Add egg yolk, pepper and a tablespoon or two of water and bring the mix to a stiff dough, same texture. Wrap the brioche and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Set the oven to 200 c/gas thermostat 6.

Bring a pot of water to boil, cut the asparagus in small lengths and cook in boiling water furiously for 5 minutes or so until this that almost tender, then remove it with a spoon of drainage. (It will get another cooking in the oven). Make the flan beating eggs very slightly in the cream and season with black pepper and, depending on how dirty your blue cheese is a little salt.

The case of tart with the dough, ensuring that you pushed the pastry line deep into the corners and that there absolutely no tears or cracks. Line with greaseproof paper and baking beans and cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes, carefully remove the beans and return the case of dough to pie in the oven for a further 5 minutes or until the dough is dry to the touch.

Turn on the oven to 180 c/gas mark 4. Place the asparagus in the case of the pie dough, then crumble the Roquefort cheese on top. Pour the cream in the pastry case and transfer carefully to the oven and bake for about 40 minutes. Let cool a little, then transfer to a plate.

Get cheap: fruit strawberry salad and cucumber. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

I know this sounds extraordinary, but it is incisive fruit salad, more refreshing imaginable. Strawberry and cucumber work wonderfully with the syrup. It's summer in a bowl. And if you can't really handle the idea of cucumber, then it is jolly good with strawberries and bananas.

For the syrup:
3 tablespoons honey
Mint 10
elderflower cordial 5 tbsp

2 cucumbers , average
450 g strawberries

Put honey, mint and elderberry syrup in a blender and blitz to a syrup, thick and fragrant. If you don't have a blender, chop Mint very finely, mix with the honey and cordial, and then leave it for an hour. Filter through a sieve or muslin to remove Mint.

Peel cucumbers, cut them in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon. Dice the flesh finely and place in a large bowl. Remove the leaves of strawberries, slice the fruit in half and gently mix with the cucumber.

Pour the currency and the flower of elderberry syrup in the fruit, stir very gently, then leave for about 30 minutes, in the refrigerator and cover, before serving.

Nigel an email at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk

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