Why we should all be eating more broccoli

Sprouting broccoli makes an excellent substitute for asparagus. Photograph: Jonathan Gayman/Getty Images/Flickr RF

As you bask in the sunshine this lunchtime, please spare a thought for those who aren't enjoying the heatwave. The frail and elderly, the very young, all those dogs panting their way around the park – and the many, many heads of broccoli, drooping sadly in the supermarket as you eagerly reach past them for a cooling cucumber.

An unusually chilly spring (remember that?) produced a glut of the brassica, which means British growers are harvesting three times as much as normal, but in the heat, no one is buying. One Kent farmer expects to lose ￡20,000 on his crop. "Most people view broccoli as something you have in the winter with warming meals like a roast dinner," he told the Mail, despondently.

Frankly, I would have expected more from Guardian readers. With Yotam Ottolenghi promoting char-grilled sprouting broccoli with sweet tahini, and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall giving a recipe for a purple sprouting broccoli pasta in this very paper, there is no excuse for such ignorance.

Indeed, for all its wintry reputation, broccoli is rather exotic; it hails from Italy, where the name is a diminutive of "shoots", so has probably been bred to go better with Hugh's garlic and anchovies than our own roast beef and Yorkshires.

Broccoli also has a colourful history: Jane Grigson, writing in 1978, expects readers to be most familiar with "the purple flowering kind", but adds that "Italians enjoy the white as well, and in recent years have added an excellent green-flowering variety that comes in larger clumps ... in shape closer to a small cauliflower". Originally developed in Calabria, in Italy's wild south, this variety is now far more common than its smaller, sproutier rivals – but both have their merits.

Our ancestors better appreciated the virtues of broccoli, with the 18th-century seed merchant Stephen Switzer claiming that, next to asparagus, it makes the best warm salads – "at least much better than any other kind of sprouts that grow". He's right: I'd take a bunch of purple sprouting broccoli over a pungent tray of beansprouts any day.

Indeed, sprouting broccoli makes an excellent substitute for asparagus now our fleeting season is over for another year. Trim the woody bases from the stalks, and steam them as you would asparagus, until just tender to the tooth, then serve with warm, rich hollandaise (the slight bitterness also works particularly well with sauce maltaise), an intensely savoury Italian bagna cauda or a garlicky Provencale aioli. Split into tiny trees, the ordinary green sort is a stalwart of the crudite selection – just the thing to dip into some tapenade or hummus.

In fact, the more flavour you throw at it the better: all varieties work brilliantly with ingredients such as chilli, soy sauce and goat's cheese, but they also look pretty added to seasonal salads of broad beans, peas and courgettes, and work wonderfully in such picnic favourites as frittatas and quiches. Why, you can even chargrill it on the barbecue. So, please, do your bit for British broccoli this summer.

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Should schools ban packed lunches? We ask school cooks, pupils and their parents

Owen Brown, from Sheffield. Father of Erinn (5) and Temzin (3)
It would concern me if dinners were compulsory. My daughter enjoys the flexibility of having a mixture of dinners and packed lunches. If she doesn't like what's on the menu then she'll take a sandwich instead. My son, who hasn't yet started school, is a much fussier eater. I'd worry that he just wouldn't eat what's on offer.

Mukhtar Karim, from Amersham. Father of Mohammad (12), Mariam (9), Zainab (5)
School dinners are useful but they're not something I feel should be enforced. My son eats dinners where halal meat is available. If there isn't any on the menu then he's pushed on to the vegetarian as a matter of course, which may mean that he doesn't enjoy his lunch.

Leanne Winter, from Devon. Mother of Charlie (11) and Theo (7)
I don't think it's a good idea. My children go to a very small school where meals are made off-site and delivered to school. This means they're very limited in space and what they can achieve. Instead, they have packed lunches – these are incredibly varied and healthy.

Karen Francis, cook at the School Dinner Company, which provides food to schools in North Somerset
It's a great idea but it's just not practical. Many of our local schools don't have kitchens because these were converted into extra classrooms 10 or so years ago. Enforcing school dinners would mean children had healthier diets. Whether or not it is possible will depend on funding.

Corinne Du Preez, cook at Kings Court First School in south-east London
It's a brilliant idea, before working in a state school I worked in an independent school where there was no option to bring in a packed lunch. It worked really well because all children were eating healthy nutritious foods. It's concerning to see the types of food children bring in packed lunches.

Jane Trestain, cook at Padstow School in Cornwall
I don't know whether all parents would want their children to have cooked dinners. It all boils down to cost, otherwise I imagine more would sign up. We've had great feedback about our school dinners and the children are involved in picking the menu.

Rebecca Anstey, aged six. Pupil at Holy Trinity Infant School, Nottinghamshire
I only have school meals on a Wednesday but I like them more [than packed lunches] because they are very delicious. My favourite meal is roast beef. They serve lots of vegetables and I like all of them. I have broccoli and tuna with my pasta. We have a pudding as well, it is usually apple crumble.

Fred Drabble, aged 11. Pupil at Deptford Green School in south-east London
Every day of my life at primary school I had an identical packed lunch of hummus and carrot sandwiches because I hated the school meals. It was nice, but got so, so boring, I almost went crazy. Now I'm at secondary school the meals are delicious I have school dinners, so do all my friends.

Ella Green, aged 16, has just graduated from Kesteven and Sleaford High School, Lincolnshire
At secondary school I had a mix of school dinners and packed lunches and I enjoyed the flexibility. If you wanted to pick something at home you could, or if you knew there was something on the menu that you wanted you could opt for that.

Amy Fleming, aged 18, has just graduated from St Julie's High School
I'm not sure that making dinners compulsory is a good idea. It would depend on the variety that's provided. It could cause problems for younger children who are a bit fussier about what they eat – though, equally it might be a good way to encourage children to have what's on offer and try new foods.

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Should we listen to wine critics?

There's nothing the Great British Public likes better than a bit of research revealing that wine critics and sommeliers can make mistakes. No matter that chefs might fail to detect the spicing in a dish or cheese experts to identify the origin of an obscure goat's cheese, there's something about wine that brings out the inverse snob in everyone. The "Ha! Told you it wasn't worth paying more than ￡3.49 a bottle" moment seems to appeal to us all.

So why bother? And, in particular, why take anyone's view – mine for instance – on wine seriously? After all, I freely confess, I've made mistakes myself in blind tastings (though not to the extent of confusing red with white). At the risk of what sounds like special pleading, I would argue that these tastings are not the ideal basis on which to judge wine. It is far more useful, for example, to try them with food or against a lineup of wines of the same type, as I've just done with half a dozen roses this morning, to see which tastes best. "Best", of course being subjective, just as it would be if I were assessing lipliners, like my colleague Sali Hughes. Most fit for purpose, maybe. If you like this kind of wine and want to pay x amount, this should do the job. I would hope people who read my column enjoy the wines I recommend. From the feedback I get, some at least do.

Like other consumer goods it's not just about price. If you're celebrating your wedding anniversary or your dad's 60th, do you crack open a bottle of Asda cava? It might taste better than some cheap champagnes. Your dad might not be able to tell the difference – but he might. And you want to show that you value him enough to pay more than ￡5 a bottle to drink to his health. Same with trainers. You can buy serviceable ones from Primark, but many would buy Nike.

Our reluctance to spend more than an absolute minimum on wine and our tendency to sneer at those who do is one of the reasons why supermarkets are able to keep screwing their suppliers and why many producers can no longer be bothered with a market that won't give them a fair return on their outlay. Don't blame the critics. The choice is yours.

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Essential Home Cooking Techniques Everyone Should Know

Out of these cooking methods, we can say that frying and roasting (to some extent) are facing rough weather because most people are becoming health-conscious and trying to avoid these cooking methods. However, there are certain food items that have to be fried or roasted, and there are certain occasions that demand such food items in their menu. To help you out, here's a know-how of all the essential cooking techniques that everyone should know.

Shallow-frying
Shallow-frying is a cooking method in which the food is cooked in a small amount of fat or oil on a flat surface, or in a shallow pan. The pan or the surface used for shallow-frying has to be preheated at a high temperature. Ensure that the food is flipped from time to time, to coat both the sides with oil or fat. It is also important to constantly monitor the process to get the desired color, texture, flavor, and taste of food. The main purpose of shallow-frying is to cook the food quickly, probably for immediate consumption, and to add crispness to the food through browning.

Best Bets for Shallow-frying: Portion-sized cuts of meat, fish, etc.Patties, such as frittersVegetablesTip: The side of the food item that will face up on the plate should be fried first as the oil or fat is clean, which will give the food a better appearance.Blanching
It is a cooking technique that involves very brief cooking of vegetables in boiling water and submerging them in ice water or running them under cold water to stop the cooking process. Blanching is done when you want the vegetables to be cooked slightly, maintaining crunchiness at the core. While blanching is sometimes done to preserve the color and texture of the food, it is sometimes used to cook the food partly or fully. It is also used to remove the strong taste of certain vegetables, like cabbage, onions, etc. This technique is most suitable while canning and freezing vegetables.

For blanching, cut the vegetables in the desired size. At the same time, heat a pan of salted water and bring it to boil. While the water is boiling, keep a strainer and a bowl of ice water ready alongside. Now, put the vegetables in boiling water, and let them sit there for just 2-3 minutes or depending upon the thickness and overall size of the vegetables. Next, drain the vegetables through a strainer, and transfer it to the bowl of ice water immediately.

Best Bets for Blanching: Blanching can be used for almost any vegetable or food substance. However, it is best for: Green beansAsparagusBroccoliCauliflowerTip: It is advisable to remove one piece from the pan after 30 seconds, put in ice water, and taste to see if it's done as per your liking. Do this after every 30-60 seconds to check the progress.Steaming
It is known to be a gentler cooking technique as compared to simmering, blanching, and other boiling techniques. There is no agitation involved in this method; hence, it is best suitable for seafood and other delicate food substances. Furthermore, since the food items are not submerged in water, there is no loss of nutrients through percolation. Since the water never touches the food, it does not overcook the food or allow too much absorption of water.

For steam cooking, you will require a saucepan and a steam basket (bamboo or stainless steel), or a heat-resistant colander. To begin with, fill the pan with water such that the water is close enough to the steamer, but does not touch the bottom of the steamer. Place the pan on a stove, and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, clean and cut the vegetables in similar sizes for even cooking. Now, put the vegetables in the steam basket, and place the basket over the pan. Reduce heat to medium, cover the pan, and let it cook. Ensure that the water in the pan does not boil away and for that, keep adding water during cooking whenever required. Cook the vegetables until they are tender when poked with a fork or a knife. The time required for cooking will vary according to the vegetables; hence, as a beginner, monitor the progress, and avoid the food from being overcooked and soggy.

Best Bets for Steaming:

Tip: If you are steaming more than one type of vegetable at a time, place heavier vegetables (that take time to cook) at the bottom and the lighter ones, such as leafy vegetables at the top.Pressure Cooking
This technique is considered the most time-efficient and cost-effective method of cooking. Food is cooked almost ten times faster than other cooking methods. Faster cooking means less fuel consumption, which cuts down on your expenses. The nutrients of the food are preserved to a great extent because the food is cooked in an almost airless atmosphere with a minimum amount of liquid. However, there are certain food substances, like soft fish, shellfish, tender meat cuts, and soft vegetables that are delicate and should not be pressure cooked because they will either be overcooked, flavorless, or burn completely. Ensure that you read the instructions given in the user manual before attempting this cooking technique.

While pressure cooking food, set the timer when there is high pressure buildup in the cooker. Wait until the set time, and then turn off the heat when the timer goes off. Let the pressure come down naturally, and then attempt to open the lid according to the instructions in the user guide. Another optional method is to cook for five extra minutes, and use the quick pressure release method to open the lid. However, be careful while doing so because the steam may come on to your hands or face, if opened in an incorrect direction.

Best Bets for Pressure Cooking: Tough meat cutsAll types of grains that can be cooked without needing to be presoakedTip: The water in the cooker should be up to 2/3rd level to allow steam buildup and space for the food to expand after cooking.Simmering
It is a cooking technique in which the food is cooked in liquid, or the liquid itself is cooked at the temperature that is below the boiling point, somewhere around 180-200 °F. Simmering is useful to cook the proteins in the food. You may cover the pot while simmering to trap the steam, and allow the food to cook in less time. However, it is important to note that the temperature may rise, and eventually you may end up boiling rather than simmering. The liquids (other than water) used for simmering are apple cider, orange juice, chicken stock, etc., to add more flavor. Vegetables are often stir-fried, and meats are browned before simmering. However, ensure that excess fat is drained off before simmering these fried food substances to avoid a greasy layer on them.

If you want to simmer vegetables, cut them into small uniform pieces, and add them to a pot with enough water (to cover them halfway). Add the seasonings with a little salt, some olive oil, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low to keep a gentle simmer going on. You can cover the pot, but like I said before, covering may increase the temperature of water to boiling point.

Poaching is another common cooking technique similar to simmering, that is normally reserved for delicate food items like eggs and fish. The main difference between poaching and simmering technique is the cooking temperature. Poaching requires a temperature range between 140-180 °F, whereas simmering, as mentioned above, needs a temperature between 180-200 °F.

Best Bets for Simmering: Soup, broth, or stockPotatoes, or pastasFishMeatTip: While simmering the food, one or two small bubbles should be released to the surface every one or two seconds. If there are more bubbles, then lower the heat, or move the pan towards one side of the burner.Grilling
It is the method of cooking that involves direct application of heat to the food. This is the major difference between grilling and barbecuing. In barbecuing, food is cooked through indirect heat. The time required for both these techniques also varies due to their use of heat. In simple terms, grilling is a fast-cooking method, whereas barbecuing is a slow, intense cooking procedure. There are several types of grills, like charcoal, gas, and infrared grills, and you can choose one depending on your requirement.

When cooking on a charcoal grill, learn about the type of grill you have to purchase, the number of briquettes to light, overall arrangement, and the cooking time required. The number of coals to be used depends on the type and size of the grill and the amount of food to be cooked. Climatic conditions also influence grilling to a great extent. Low temperatures, windy atmosphere, or highly humid conditions demand an increased number of charcoals. However, on an average, under optimum conditions, around 30 coals may be required for grilling one pound of meat. As far as the cooking time is concerned, follow whatever is recommended in your recipe.

On the other hand, the technique for gas grilling should be learned and mastered with the help of a user guide that comes with the product. However, the major concern while grilling with a charcoal or a gas grill is to avoid flare-ups by controlling the fire.

One more technique on the lines of grilling is broiling. The main and only difference between these two cooking methods is the direction of heat. While in grilling the heat source is below the food, in broiling, it is above the food.

Best Bets for Grilling: Fish and meat cutsShrimpPoultryHot dogsHamburgersTip: Pierce meat cuts with a fork to let the juices escape, thus preventing the meat from becoming moist.Barbecuing
The term "barbecue" is applicable for both, the cooking technique as well as the apparatus used for cooking. It differs from grilling with respect to the cooking time required. Also, the temperature at which the food is cooked varies in both techniques. It is often confused with the smoking method; but, they differ a lot from each other. However, barbecuing encompasses several smoking techniques to a great extent.

As it is with grilling, barbecue also requires a heat source, such as a charcoal, or a gas grill, and the cooking is usually carried out in an outdoor environment. As mentioned earlier in the grilling section, barbecue is a slow-cooking method with indirect heat. It may take several hours to get the food item perfectly cooked with the right flavor.

Best Bets for Barbecue:

Tip: To maintain moisture in the meat, keep a pan of water near the fire, but away from the meat.Rotisserie
Since grilling, barbecuing, searing, and rotisserie fall under the category of roasting, they may seem similar or overlapping to a new cook. However, there are various points of differences between all these techniques, and each one has a unique feature. In rotisserie, a long metal rod is inserted in the food item, and the rod is then suspended horizontally above the heat source. The heat source may be a gas or charcoal grill with or without a hood. Direct heating may be used to cook smaller and thinner pieces of meat. For larger meat cuts, the heat source is usually beside the food, and the hood is closed to retain the heat and flavor. The rod is then rotated slowly using an electric motor for even circulation of the heat all over the food.

While using this cooking technique, ensure that there is uniformity in the shape of the meat you have chosen. Parts, like wings or legs should not flop around and block the heat. For that, it is essential to tie up these parts properly with a butcher's twine before cooking. Attach one set of prongs to the skewer while inserting another into the meat. Once inserted properly, attach another set of prongs to the skewer, and tighten it with the screws. Place the rod over the grill, and readjust the position of the meat accordingly. Now, place an aluminum drip pan under the meat to collect the droppings. If you fill the pan with water or any other liquid, like fruit juices, wine, or beer, it will help keep the meat moist while cooking and prevent flare-ups. Lastly, use a meat thermometer to check for the doneness of the meat from inside. Ensure that the thermometer is not left in the meat during cooking.

Best Bets for Rotisserie:

Tip: Apply sauce to the meat during the last 10 to 15 minutes to prevent excessive browning or burning of the sauce.Searing
Searing is done when you want the surface of the food to be cooked until golden-brown while keeping the interior soft and less cooked. Searing also gives a crispy texture to the food and adds a unique flavor through browning or caramelization. Like sauteing, it is a part of cooking process in which the food is cooked at a very high temperature to form a caramelized crust before cooking it further in the oven. The three things that are most important for good searing are high heat, direct heat, and the time. Around 500 °F is the perfect temperature for searing.

For searing, you will need a pan, probably a thick cast iron pan to hold the heat for a longer period. Practically, once preheated at a really high temperature, the cast iron pan or even a stainless steel pan, for that matter, can cook the food even if it's removed from the heat source. To test the readiness of the pan, sprinkle a few drops of water, and if it sizzles on the pan, then the pan is perfectly ready for searing. Remove the pan from heat, put some butter or oil, and coat the pan surface. Ensure that the butter just gets heated and does not burn. Now, add the food pieces, and let it cook until a crust is formed. It should take 3 minutes approximately to be done from one side. However, it will depend on the thickness of the piece, the type of pan used, and the temperature at which it's cooked. Once a brownish crust is formed, flip it with a spatula without breaking the crust. When both the sides get the desired color, remove it from the pan, and cook it further in the oven, on a slow cooker, or simmer on the stove.

Best Bets for Searing:

Tip: For a nice finishing glow to your seared piece, baste it with melted butter using a spoon.Baking
It is the method of cooking food using dry heat. Since, it is the most fundamental method of cooking used worldwide, you really need to practice it regularly. What actually happens in baking is that the heat is gradually transferred from the surface of the food to its center. As it transfers, the batter or the dough gets transformed into baked food with the softness retained at the core.

There are a few important things to consider while baking, and they are as follows:

? Understanding the recipe that you are attempting and having all the ingredients in place is really important.
? Accuracy is the next important aspect of baking. Improvisations and substitutions should be avoided while baking any dish.
? Use standard measuring cups and spoons to avoid mistakes, and use only the pan size that is recommended in the recipe.

With all these things, you are set to get a perfectly baked food product.

Best Bets for Baking: Cakes, pastries and breadsVegetablesMeat, fish, and poultryTip: While placing pans in the oven, ensure that they are not touching each other, or the walls of the oven. If there is no space to put the pans side by side, place them on different racks to allow proper air circulation.Blind Baking
Also known as pre-baking, this is the method of cooking a pie crust or a pastry base without the filling. It can be cooked partially, or completely before filling it. There can be two occasions when you would want to use the blind baking technique: (i) When the crust needs a longer time to cook as compared to the filling; (ii) When you are making a custard pie, wherein the custard filling does not need baking.

While blind baking, select your baking dish; tin and glass dishes are a common choice. Roll out the dough in the dish without stretching it too much. Let the prepared pastry base or the empty pie crust sit in the freezer for half an hour prior to baking, to make it firm and prevent shrinkage while baking. To prevent formation of air bubbles, dock the dough by piercing it with a fork. However, don't overdo it, as the filling could leak through the crust. Now, line the base and sides of the crust with a nonstick baking paper, and fill with rice, or dried beans. You can also use pie weights to prevent the crust from puffing or rising. Preheat the oven at the temperature recommended in the recipe, or if it isn't mentioned, set at 375 °F, and bake for 8-10 minutes. Further, remove the nonstick baking paper, and bake again for 5-7 minutes or until golden-brown. However, if you are baking the crust partially, add the filling, and then cook further.

Best Bets for Blind Baking: Tart shellPie crustPastry baseTip: If edges of the crust start browning very quickly, cover them with pie crust shields. If you don't have them, use an aluminum foil to cover the edges and prevent excessive browning.

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MasterChef? Delia Smith should try watching Man v Food

Adam Richman in Man v Food: gastronomic filth.

There are two very different types of food television right now. There are the shows everyone from the laziest sports science student to your nan knows and watches. The terrestrial, safe, twee, scallops'n'cauliflower puree world of MasterChef, the Hairy Bikers and Great British Bake Off. They love "I wish my Mum were here to see this" narratives. The food they serve up is the kind of thing you'd see at a posh wedding or golf-course hotel. It's nice. Such programmes have been accused of forgetting the real essence of cooking TV, and even the home baking matriarch herself, Delia Smith, has waded in, grumbling that "nobody teaches people how to cook any more".

That might be true, Delia, but have you seen Man v Food? It barely teaches you how to eat properly, let alone cook. The snotty younger brother of food programming is clambering down to the kitchen from the teenage boy's bedroom that is the depths of Freeview. Man v Food is one of a number of loud, brash, unashamedly American offerings such as Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives and Iron Chef, which reaches its typically overstated finale tonight. These dirty food shows don't make you want to buy the cookbook. They're shows that make you want to jump on the next plane to Coronaryville, Texas, to order yourself a five-spice rub chicken'n'cheese steak with a side of Mama's cinnamon grits.

It's a fact that probably winds up Charles Campion and the stuffed-shirt judges on the likes of Britain's Best Dish, but shows like this are becoming cult viewing in this country. Not cult viewing like the latest BBC4 Scandi-crime, but in the way that World's Scariest Police Chases or Danny Dyer's Deadliest Men are trashy pleasures. This is garish, macho, gluttonous food TV aimed squarely at young people with short attention spans.

The popularity of this greasy genre is such that Man v Food's Adam Richman (a big man who likes his food) and Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives' Guy Fieri (a brash, bleach-haired skate-punk cowboy who runs a much derided Rock'n'Roll Sushi BBQ chain) have become cult figures in the same way that David Dickinson and Sky Sports' Jeff Stelling once were. They talk about food with passion, but as if it were cars or on-form strikers rather than Renaissance paintings. They eat the food, too, but they're looking for spice, size and the "woo-ha!" factor rather than earthy notes and subtle combinations.

MasterChef is often bandied about as an example of "food porn", but it isn't really, and that's why these new American imports are taking off. With their lurid close-ups, the oozing, stringy pull-aways and the frantic editing, they're gastronomic filth. This is food as primal fantasy rather than aspirational status. It's dirty, it's unhealthy and you might feel a bit awkward watching it with your family. It's the perfect programme to veg out to, and it's here to stay.

In a way, it's odd that the terrestrial proponents of epicurean entertainment haven't picked up on dirty food, particularly as food critics have spent the past couple of years praising a new breed of burger joints such as Meat Liquor in London, which makes the kind of grub Adam Richman might consider a light snack before bedtime. They're ahead of the mainstream TV producers so in love with Jamie, Hugh and Gordon – but don't be surprised if you see Delia embarking on a hot wings challenge rather than basting a turkey on her next Christmas special.

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