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Showing posts with label Chefs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chefs. Show all posts

Friday, August 2, 2013

Top tastes: chefs' favourite flavours

Chilli being cut on a chopping board Chilli: 'We sometimes blanch pepper eight times to get the balance of flavours just right,' says Robert Ortiz, head chef at Lima in London. Photograph: David Levene for the Guardian

Sometimes flawed questions are worth asking just for fun. Such as this: what is the single, most flavoursome ingredient? It's a silly question, of course, in that taste is largely subjective, and involves ridiculously complex psychological and physiological toings and froings. We know that flavour perception comes through a complex web of sight, smell, taste, touch and sound, so which food pushes the most sensory buttons in the most broadly appealing way? I conducted a straw poll among some taste experts and chefs to find out.

They have it all, says Gail Vance Civille, president of Sensory Spectrum a consultancy specialising in consumer sensory experience. "The single most impactful ingredient in the mouth," she says, "is a chilli that imparts lots of heat (to the point of pain), some sweetness, some saltines, perhaps some sourness and bitterness." Robert Ortiz, head chef at Lima in London singles out the Peruvian rocoto pepper. "It has a vibrant colour and hot citrus flavour, which can be transformed by cooking into a mellower spiciness," he says. "At Lima we sometimes blanch the pepper eight times to get the balance of flavours just right." He recommends rubbing a deseeded wedge into fish or vegetables to add an extra dimension. "Blended with oil or mayonnaise it makes a tasty sauce for salmon or scallops," he adds.

In Samantha Clark from Moro's opinion, chillies come a "close second" to the salted anchovy. "For me it really hits the umami spot," she says, "and it goes well with almost anything savoury – fish and meat and brings vegetables (both raw and cooked) alive." Both salt and umami tend to have great impact, says Vance Civille, "and enhance the perception of other tastes and olfactory sensations." Chef and food writer Matt Tebbutt is also an anchovy champion, and both he and Clark are sticklers for a high-quality fillet. "There is nothing worse than a slightly stale fishy anchovy in bad oil," says Clark.

John Hayes, assistant professor of food science at Pennsylvania State University, says garlic "makes almost anything better", and Vance Civille declares it "another winner – especially raw". She breaks it down for us. The aromatics are "green, sulphurous, cabbage, skunky [yes, skunky] and oniony". The tastes are sweet, sour, bitter and salty, and then we get a "good amount of" heat sensation.

After flirting with coffee and roasted peanuts, Niki Segnit, author of The Flavour Thesaurus, says those ingredients would be hard pushed to beat the sensation of a piece of chocolate liquefying in the mouth. "On the basis of flavour complexity, balance of taste and quality of texture," she says, "a decent bar of chocolate might be considered the tastiest ingredient."

The luxurious dissipation, she says, is down to the high content of cocoa butter, which has a particularly low melting point. As the chocolate melts, the flavour compounds are released: "chocolate contains hundreds," she says, "partly thanks to the fact that it is roasted and fermented." Taste-wise, chocolate is bitter-sweet, "although some kinds, particularly milk chocolate, are also sour to varying extents". Salted chocolate, which is increasingly common, not only adds the taste of salt, but salt also enhances sweetness. But one of the notes, she says, that makes chocolate so delicious, can also work with healthy ingredients. "If anyone thinks they don't like cauliflower, brussels sprouts or kale, I'd urge them to try them roasted before writing them off entirely."

Few foods say summer like a perfectly ripe peach – championed by Tebbutt and Arnaud Bignon, chef at The Greenhouse restaurant in London. He says the vine peach an "amazing product", from its velvety skin, to the intense sweet-and-acidic juice burst. "The after taste will be so long," he says, "that you will remember the peach all day."

Ben Tish, chef director of Salt Yard Group, which owns Dehesa, Opera Tavern and Salt Yard says parmesan is a no-brainer. "It has all the flavours, including umami, salty and sweet. Texture-wise I love its softness when warm and hardness when cold. And the best parmesan has amazing crystals that add another crunchy layer of texture." Tebbutt was also toying with picking parmesan, and the lauded Italian chef Massimo Bottura gets pretty gushy about it. It is not just a cheese to him but "a living, breathing portrait of our Emilian landscape, part of our DNA and the cornerstone of the Italian kitchen. The ageing process guarantees a great range of flavour and texture from the same product – for example a 24-month-aged parmigiano and a 48-month-aged parmigiano offer different sensations, emotions and possibilities in the kitchen."

"A Chateau Lafitte, Chateau Margaux or a Romanee Conti," suggests Prof Barry Smith, co-director of the Centre for the Study of the Senses at the University of London. Of course, different cultures value different senses more, he points out, chewing over my question (take the Chinese, for whom it's all about texture). But Smith settles on the wine because one of the best, multiple triggering of the senses comes when, he says, you drink "an extraordinary wine with heady aromas, beautiful ripe fruit, fine tannins and balancing acidity to give structure, and a velvety mouth feel." I'll have one of what he's having.

Someone had to say it, didn't they? This time it was the turn of Jacob Kenedy, chef and co-owner of Bocca di Lupo and Gelupo, and he's a really good cook. "There is one single ingredient, without which all food, and life itself, would be as bland as wet cardboard," he says. "When cooked without it," he continues, "great chefs' souffles fall as dramatically as empires, custards split, roasts burn and loaves fail to rise." Is he not confusing it with concentration, or skill? Anyhow, I'm going to disqualify this one because you can't buy it in a supermarket.

Do you agree with any of the above? What else would you nominate?


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Friday, July 26, 2013

Warning: chefs behaving properly

Gordon Ramsay shouting The old guard: Gordon Ramsay in action. Photograph: Fox/Splash News

Some 13 years have passed since the New York chef Anthony Bourdain laid bare his sweaty, savage, drug-addled life in the brilliant memoir, Kitchen Confidential. All manner of unsettling practices were divulged, from serving nasty old fish on Mondays, to staff ritually spraying blood from their war wounds all over?each other. In one brigade, they marked the start of evening service by?pouring brandy on the stove to recreate the napalm blast from the film?Apocalypse Now. Bourdain wrote about cooking as though he were reporting from the front line.

A new book by Imogen Edwards-Jones, called Restaurant Babylon, sets?out to reveal a similarly seedy underbelly of London's current fine dining scene. For this, the eighth of her?Babylon series (Hotel and Fashion were both adapted for television), she?has interviewed a number of anonymous industry insiders. The high?point, she tells me, was when six?chefs chewed the fat around her kitchen table one evening. As the wine flowed, the chefs grew increasingly competitive and their anecdotes got juicier and juicier. The many lurid stories in her book are true, says Edwards-Jones, but they are shoe-horned into 24 hours in the life of one?fictional restaurateur, giving a "hyperbolic view of everything".

The gist of the book is that, other?than improved working hours, little has changed since the Kitchen Confidential days. Bad-boy chefs: tick. Bullying: tick. Sex in cupboards: tick. Drink and drugs: tick and tick. Our narrator awakes, still dressed after passing out the night before, with a strange blonde in his bed. The coke-head chef of his one-Michelin-starred restaurant is grotesque in every way, from his appalling personal hygiene to?his penchant for brief, hassle-free extramarital flings with drunken women. A young commis chef arrives at work off his face. In the telling, Edwards-Jones reveals such unsavoury kitchen practices such as "lick and?stick", where chefs use saliva to?adhere delicate ingredients to the?plate.

But doesn't this all sound like the stuff of reminiscence rather than current reality? Surely the lives of the earnest, post-Gordon Ramsay generation would make far less salacious copy; heads down, focusing on upping their games, building their brands and getting some beauty sleep before their appearance on Saturday Kitchen? Even the book's narrator says the "metro chefs" coming through now are softer and gentler.

Take Jackson Boxer, the director of Brunswick House and Rita's Bar and Dining, a twentysomething hipster with a English Lit degree from Cambridge and cooking written into his DNA (his grandmother is the acclaimed food writer Arabella Boxer). "Restaurant work at all levels is hard," he says. "However, everywhere I've worked, there's always been a strong sense that the proprietors take seriously their duty of care towards their employees." He reckons the mythology of restaurant excess is an external perception, although one, it would appear from Restaurant Babylon, that some chefs are happy to perpetuate.

Chef-to-watch Isaac McHale, 33, whose new eatery the Clove Club in Shoreditch Town Hall was one of London's most anticipated openings this year, takes a similar tone. It's his day off and he sounds knackered. "In?restaurants I've worked," he yawns, "like the Ledbury and Tom Aikens, people would just finish their shift and go home, because they were back in six hours. Everyone has a professional attitude." Wait: wasn't Aikens alleged to have once "branded" a teenage junior chef with a hot palette knife? "There's high tension," allows McHale.

He and his partners threw an after-after party for the World's 50 Best Restaurant awards this year. The international gastronomic creme de la creme in one room? In high spirits? Surely there was gossip? "People drank, danced, ate some buns and wood-pigeon sausages," he sighs. "There were no stories of intrigue or drug taking that I'm not telling you." Either McHale is the soul of discretion or this truly was an innocuous gaggle?of hard-workers letting their?hair down.

The cooking arena has in recent years been elevated from a service job to a revered (fetishised, even) vocation – so while there is greater competition and pressure, kitchens also tend to be?more serious workplaces. One restaurant publicist tells me that when she was doing service shifts in the early 90s, "everybody was on drugs". Many legendary tales of candle burning hail from that era: chefs curling up on piles of bin bags at work after a heavy night, and sex all over the shop. Allegra?McEvedy, whose wild early cheffing years saw her fired from the Groucho Club and the River Cafe, says?that when she originally told her?school friends that she wanted to train?as a cook, "in their eyes I may as well have been taking up plumbing". It?was just the dawn of the UK's culinary awakening, with Marco Pierre White as its precocious poster boy, and the stakes have been continuously upped ever since.

Isaac McHale The new school (oven gloves optional): Isaac McHale of the Clove Club. Photograph: Katherine Rose

But despite today's more studious culture, the fact remains that it is easy to pick up a drink problem working in a restaurant. Temptation is everywhere and there is little chance of drifting straight off to sleep after a frenetic evening's performance. With so many young, outgoing, transient staff around, too, that unwinding beverage can easily escalate. One maitre d' told me that when he worked at one of those extremely swanky West End establishments that ooze old money and timeless sophistication, the staff partied like crazy, and were frequently caught on the restaurant's CCTV getting up to no?good.

A decade since Ramsay's head chef?David Dempsey fell to his death after taking alcohol and cocaine, the benevolent charity Hospitality Action still sees a healthy take up of workers seeking advice on dealing with alcoholism, drugs, bullying, stress and debt. The charity sends recovering alcoholics, such as Michael Quinn, who went from head chef at the Ritz to a Salvation Army hostel, to colleges to warn 11,000 students a year of the risks. "It's a society issue, not just this industry," chief executive Penny Moore points out, "but the message from us is positive. The issues are being addressed and things have changed dramatically."

When Thomas Blythe, who was general manager at St John for 12 years and will shortly launch the Merchant's Tavern in Shoreditch with Angela Hartnett, arrived in London as a 17-year-old chef, 80-hour weeks were the norm. Today, he says, 48-hour contracts prevail, with a clause that managers can ask staff to work longer when required, but that staff can, in theory, refuse. He also says that the industry is now much more enlightened regarding sexism and bullying. The fact that most restaurants have to fight to retain good staff these days helps. However, horror stories still surface.

One manager told me about her time at what is known as the worst London fine-dining restaurant to work in. The famous chef patron there believes that the only way to get the staff to perform is to put the fear of God into them. He exhausts his front-of-house staff by drinking late with customers, and then charges in the next morning, hungover with duvet folds imprinted on his face, and insults them for minor matters such as leaving water in an ice bucket overnight. If front-of-house staff request the lunch menu before 11.45am, he'll tell them to "fuck off" out of his kitchen. They see nothing of the service charge.

Thankfully, reigns of terror such as?this are now considered rather old school, and are less common than in the past, when sometimes not even the?customers were safe. In the 1980s, Nico Ladenis famously decreed that no?customer was allowed to ask for salt, different lighting or a second gin and tonic in his restaurants. And in?1998, Ramsay made headlines ejecting?the critic AA Gill and his dining companion, Joan Collins, from his restaurant after Gill had belittled him in print. But what chance of level-headedness did Ramsay stand when one of his early bollockings from mentor Marco Pierre White reduced him to tears? (When I dined with Ramsay and White in the late 90s, shortly after the Gill incident, Ramsay was a pussycat in his former mentor's presence.)

These days, of course, ugly displays of temper are most likely to become public on the internet. Take the shocking spat that erupted late last year after a food blogger gave Hibiscus three out of five in an online review. Claude Bosi, the two-starred restaurant's chef, bizarrely tracked him down on Twitter to call him "a cunt". Then two more top chefs – Tom Kerridge and Sat?Bains – rounded on the blogger, encouraging Bosi to "smash him in" and calling him a c#nt and c**t respectively, along with so many other vile things that the blogger closed his Twitter account. Critics may still have the power to make or break, but web reviews can't half stir up a chef's bile.

Running a great restaurant will always be stressful, but these unpleasant tales call to mind an amusing quote from one of Edwards-Jones's sources, which appears in her book: "It's ridiculous. All the shouting and screaming and slapping and hauling around great sides of beef and all we are really doing is making people's tea.?It's just a bit of tea."

Restaurant Babylon by Imogen Edwards-Jones and Anonymous is published by Bantam Press at £14.99


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Friday, May 24, 2013

State Bird Provisions | Chefs Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski

Q. What / who were your influences when you were putting the concept together?

A. Bad-ass hors d'oeuvres parties!

Q. Which dishes do you feel you most likely won’t take off the menu?

A. Mendocino sea urchin, ginger/scallion pancake, soy-lime glaze, CA state bird with provisions, ‘ice cream’ sandwich, ‘world peace’ peanut muscovado milk, garlic bread with burrata.


Garlic Bread with Burrata

Photo Credit: Freda Banks

Peanut Muscovado Milk

Photo Credit: Freda Banks


Q. Tell us about your next project, The Progress, just a few doors down?

A. The new restaurant will be slightly bigger than State Bird, both in the size of the space and size of the plates. It occupies what was originally The Progress Theater, a movie house that opened in 1911 and closed fifteen years later. The new space will boast a full bar and a 25-foot ceiling with a mezzanine. The Progress will work in a way that’s different from and yet symbiotic with what we've learned at SBP.

Q. When traveling, if only the mini-bar stocked....

A. Corn nuts!


Pastries from b. patisserie

Photograph courtesy of b. patisserie


Chef’s Recs | San Francisco, CA


Find | Shops & Markets

These all provide something unique, delicious and definitely San Francisco.

20th Century Cafe

San Francisco has never seen anything like it. Expect amazing knish, ice creams, and the most perfect fruit tart you've ever seen!

198 Gough Street, San Francisco, CA 94102

4505 Meats

You can get a killer hot dog and a chicken to roast for dinner later all at the same place.

Ferry Plaza Farmers Market | 1 Ferry Building, San Francisco, CA 94105

Divisadero Farmers Market | Grove Street at Divisadero, San Francisco, CA 94117

Mission Community Market | Bartlett Street b/w 22nd and 21st Streets , San Francisco, CA 94110

4505meats.com


Alemany Farmer's Market

Down, dirty and delicious. Bang for your buck.

100 Alemany Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94110

T: 415.647.9423 | sfgsa.org

b. patisserie

Modern, French pastries that you can't get anywhere else... so tasty!

2821 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94115

T: 415.440.1700

Boulette's Larder

They elevate the simple things: have you had their house-made English muffin??

1 Sausalito, San Francisco Ferry Building #48, ?San Francisco, CA 94111

T: 415.399.1155 | www.bouletteslarder.com

Gourmet & More

Cheese Cave!

141 Gough Street, San Francisco, CA 94102

T: 415.874.9133


Pozole from Nopalito

Photograph courtesy of Nopalito


Eat | Restaurants To Take a Visiting Chef

Nopalito

For their pozole. They make the best, most hospitable Mexican food.

Haight-Ashbury | 306?Broderick?Street, San Francisco, CA 94117 | T: 415.437.0303

Sunset | 1224?9th?Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94122 | T: 415.233.9966

nopalitosf.com

Restaurant Duende & Bodega

For their take on vegetable paella. They have a wonderful soulful take on Cal-Spanish food.

468 19th Street, Oakland, CA94612

T: 510.893.0174 (make a reservation) | duendeoakland.com

Eat | For Chef Inspiration

Bar Tartine

For inspiration, we visit chefs Nick Balla and Cortney Burns.

561 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94103

T: 415.487.1600 (make a reservation) | bartartine.com


California / Japanese Izakaya Food at Nojo

Photograph courtesy of Nojo


Eat | Local Chefs Deserving More Recognition

Nojo

Chef Greg Dunmore definitely deserves more recognition.

231 Franklin Street, San Francisco, CA 94102

T: 415.896.4587 (make a reservation) | nojosf.com


Bread at Outerlands

Photograph courtesy of Outerlands


Eat | Off The Beaten Track

Outerlands

Their menu changes too frequently to give you a signature dish, but everything is delicious. Even though it's still in the city, you feel transported to another place with the beachy vibe.

4001 Judah Street, San Francisco, CA 94122

T: 415.661.6140 (make a reservation) | outerlandssf.com

Pizzetta 211

For their pizza, duh! It's the perfect place to go on a Sunday at 4pm after an adventure in Golden Gate Park.

211 23rd Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94121

T: 415.379.9880 | pizzetta211.com

Drink | Coffee

Blue Bottle on Linden Street

This kiosk is still pumping out great coffee after 8+ years in business.?

315 Linden Street, San Francisco, CA 94102

bluebottlecoffee.com/locations/kiosk


Beer at Fat Angel

Photograph courtesy of Fat Angel


Drink | Bars

Zuni Cafe

The bar at Zuni Cafe is perfect for standing, slurping oysters and drinking a Kir Royal. It doesn't get better than that.

1658 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94102

T: 415.552.2522? (make a reservation) | www.zunicafe.com

Social Study

The perfect spot for a pre-State Bird Provisions drink.

1795 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94115

T: 415.292.7417 | socialstudysf.com

Fat Angel

The perfect spot for a pre-State Bird Provisions beer.

1740 O'Farrell Street, San Francisco, CA 94115

T: 415.525.3013 | fatangelsf.com

F.E.D. Recs on the Go


Download the F.E.D. iPhone app and get more San Francisco recommendations from other chefs, sommeliers and bartenders.


View the original article here

Chef’s Ingredients | Murray River Salt

Find | Murray River Salt

“It’s a very delicate pink, fresh salt from an estuary with salt deposits. It’s very clean with a lot of clay in it; it’s very nice.”

- Chef Paul Liebrandt

The salt is harvested from the Murray River estuary (also known as Murray Darling Basin) which is Australia’s longest river and is located in the southern part of the country.

The salt’s light pink almost peach / apricot hue results from the red pigment from the algae that live in the salt water of the river.

Its flavor is very light and mild, almost an un-salty salt and this subtle taste makes it perfect as a finishing salt. Try it on end-of-the-season ripe tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, or even chocolate and caramel.



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Wednesday, May 22, 2013

The Catbird Seat | Chefs Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger

Q. Tell us about The Catbird Seat...

A. The Catbird Seat is?a small tasting room open four nights a week. We do everything in front of the guests so it’s a really interactive and upfront experience. There’s no ordering here. Just a set tasting menu of 7 to 9 courses with the option of a wine pairing by our new Beverage Director Adam Binder.


Sweet Potato Bisque

Photograph courtesy of The Catbird Seat


Q. What store-bought ingredient are you loving right and how are you using it?

A. Yogurt -- at the restaurant, we’ve been infusing it with hay and serving it alongside pigeon. We can’t really roast whole birds in hay here, so we thought by incorporating it into the yogurt we could achieve that delicious roast-hay flavor.


Chefs’ Recs... Nashville, TN


Find | Markets & Shops

K & S World Market

It’s a little grocery store by the Nashville Zoo that specializes in Latin and Asian foods. All the produce is priced a third of what a chain grocery store charges and the Asian non-perishables are organized by country. There’s a Thai aisle, a Japanese aisle, a Korean aisle.

4225 Nolensville Pike, Nashville, TN 37211

T: 615.832.8881


City House

Photograph courtesy of City House


Eat | Restaurants To Take A Visiting Chef

City House

I love it, but it’s a tough table to get these days. Rustic Italian in philosophy and using many locally-sourced ingredients. They do a killer job. I wish I could cook octopus as good as they do. Order the pan-roasted octopus, Frico and?Carolina trout.

1222 4th Avenue N, Nashville, TN 37208

T: 615.736.5838 (make a reservation)

www.cityhousenashville.com

Paradise Park Trailer Resort

Perfectly greasy and perfect in every bad and guilty way you need a cheeseburger to be. It’s a lifesaver after a long night of drinking.

411 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203

T: 615.251.1515

www.paradiseparkonline.com


Mitchell Delicatessen

Photograph courtesy of Mitchell Delicatessen


Mitchell Delicatessen

The best sandwiches in town. If they had a spot near me, I would probably go there five times a week. I hate using the word ‘hipster,’ but that may be the best way to describe it. It’s not an old-school deli -- it has a younger vibe. Most of the cooks have been there since the beginning though and that says a lot. Order the Muffalatta or the Banh Mi.

1402 McGavock Pike, Nashville, TN 37216

T: 615.262.9862

www.mitchelldeli.com


Squid Ink Pasta and Cocktails

Photograph courtesy of Rolf and Daughters


Rolf and Daughters

They have great food and cocktails. I love the squid ink pasta.

700 Taylor Street, Nashville, TN 37208

T: 615.866.9897

www.rolfanddaughters.com

Eat | Off The Beaten Track

El Amigo

It’s off Nolensville Road. Definitely order the grilled chicken.

3901 Nolensville Pike, Nashville, TN 37211

T: 615.833.6434

Eat | For A Quintessential Nashville Experience

Arnold’s Country Kitchen Meat and Three

I always take visiting friends here. It’s a Nashville institution. You walk through a cafeteria-style line, choose three side dishes from 8 to 15 options, one protein from 4 to 5 options and you have a great lunch. You have to try the brisket, jalapeno cheese grits and bread pudding.?There are a lot of meat and threes in Tennessee, but Arnold’s does it the best.

605 8th Avenue S, Nashville, TN 37203

T: 615.256.4455


Cocktails at Bar No. 308

Photograph courtesy of Bar No. 308


Drink | Cocktails

The Patterson House

This was one of the first speakeasy-style bars to open in Nashville. They really focus on the classics, but the bartenders also contribute original cocktails to the menu as well. You must order the doughnuts!

1711 Division Street, Nashville, TN 37203

T: 615.636.7724

www.thepattersonnashville.com

Bar No. 308

I like this place because the bartenders can make amazing cocktails, but they also make a lot of highballs and house-made soda. It’s cool; it’s hip. The Mitchell Delicatessen crowd hangs out here.

407 Gallatin Avenue, Nashville, TN 37206

T: 615.650.7344

www.bar308.com


Coffee at Cream

Photograph courtesy of Crema | Photo Credit: JoshuaCole.com


Drink | Coffee

Crema

When I saw the barista weighing coffee grounds with a gram scale and then weighing out the actual espresso shot, I was impressed. Nobody in town does it better than Crema. The baristas here really love their jobs and it’s just a really cool shop. They do great seasonal coffee drinks as well. They have one in the summer called the Cafe Tom Kau that’s a double espresso with Kaffir lime leaf syrup and coconut milk shaken like a cocktail.

15 Hermitage Avenue, Nashville, TN 37204

T: 615.255.8311

www.crema-coffee.com

F.E.D. Recs on the Go


Download the F.E.D. iPhone app and get Nashville recommendations from chefs Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger as well as more recs from other chefs, sommeliers and bartenders.


View the original article here

Chefs’ Ingredients | Bottarga

Recipe


Stracci with Seafood

Recipe courtesy of chef Scott Conant


Stracci pasta (translated to rag) are cooked in clam juice and leek sauce which is made from leeks, shallots, chicken stock and extra virgin olive oil. Sliced garlic and scallion are sweated then deglazed with the shellfish stock. Leek sauce is then added. The dish is finished with a mixture of seafood, little neck clams, razor clams, mussels, rock shrimp. It is then finished with a chiffonade of parsley. Once plated, the dish is topped with a bottarga breadcrumb mixture (bottarga is dried fish roe from either tuna or mullet, we use mullet bottarga).

Yield

Serves 2

Ingredients

- 19 pieces of Stracci?

- 2 oz. shellfish liquid

- 2 oz. leek sauce

- 5 shucked clams

- 5 shucked mussels

- 1 tablespoon razor clam diamonds

- 8 marinated rock shrimp

- 2 tablespoon leeks, diced and cooked

- 1 teaspoon shaved garlic

- 1 tablespoon sliced scallions (on the bias)

- 1 tablespoon parsley (chiffonade)

- 2 tablespoon bottarga breadcrumbs

- 1 tablespoon tomato dice

Leek Sauce

- 2 quarts leeks

- 6 cloves garlic

- 1 quart zucchini bodies (no skin)

- 1.5 quart vegetable stock

- 1 - 1.5 cups extra virgin olive oil

- Thyme, to taste

- Peperoncino, to taste

- Salt, to taste

Directions

Leek Sauce

1) Sweat leeks and garlic, no color.

2) Season with salt, peperocino and thyme.

3) Add zucchini bodies, sweat.

4) Deglaze with vegetable stock, bring to boil.

5) Simmer until fully cooked, 30 minutes.

6) Strain and puree adding the liquid back in to adjust consistency.

7) Blend in extra virgin olive oil and adjust seasoning.

Seafood + Stracci

1) Heat saute pan, add 2 tablespoon olive oil.

2) Add garlic and sweat, no color, add scallions, add leeks.

3) Cook pasta in boiling, salted water.

4) As the pasta is cooking, deglaze pan with shellfish stock.

5) Add leek sauce.

6) Cook pasta 3/4 of the way in the pasta cooker, then finish in the pan with the stock and sauce.

7) Adjust consistency with pasta water.

8) Add the shellfish, finish with parsley and tomatoes.

9) Plate the pasta in the center of a large round coupe plate.

10) Sprinkle 2 tablespoon of bottarga breadcrumbs.


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Monday, May 20, 2013

Chefs’ Ingredients | Texas Olive Oil

Find | Texas Olive Oil

When it comes to olive oil, Italy is the world's biggest importer, consumer and exporter; Spain is the largest producer. Less than 1 percent of the olive oil consumed in the United States is produced domestically, with California producing 99% of domestic olive oil.

But there is gold coming from the hills of Texas. While olive oil production in the Lone Star State is just two decades old, there are nearly 888,000 olive trees planted there.

Chefs-turned-butchers Chris Carter and James Peisker of Porter Road Butcher in Nashville, TN only use and sell products that originate in the south. When it comes to olive oils, they turn to Texas.

Here are two Texas oils they recommend.

Texas Olive Ranch

Operated in Carrizo Springs since the mid-1990s, Texas Olive Ranch? produces extra virgin olive oil from over 40,000?Arbequina, Arbosana?and?Koroneiki?variety olive trees. Chris says “it has peppery notes to it.”
www.texasoliveranch.com

Sandy Oaks

One of the first commercial olive orchards in Texas, it’s located 20 minutes south of San Antonio. Their mild blend is pressed from Arbequina and Arbosana trees. Chris describes it as “fruity, with banana flavors.”
www.sandyoaks.com


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