New recipes by Nigel Slater potato

Let the sun shine: new potatoes from Nigel Slater with hazelnuts recipe. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

New potato season is at our gates: these tiny, unscreened tubers that are as much a part of the British summer strawberries and asparagus. If you dig them up the garden, pick them out of a dry-cleaner bag or stuff a box plastic of them in your shopping cart, you're almost certainly a treat. Good they are when steamed or boiled and seasoned with butter and chopped parsley, they respond well to thinking more imagination, too.

There are several varieties sold as "new potatoes", the most venerable is the Jersey Royal. Most large supermarkets sell these young ready potatoes washed and packed in plastic bags. Scaly skin and fine, removed Earth, potatoes lose part of their magic for me. Be able to choose your own is more my style, giving you a chance to get to the smallest, whose skin is still moist and flaky. Those to serve conventionally, their still intact thin skin, sliding with butter and freckles with parsley as fine as the tea leaves. (A bowl of steaming Jersey Royals is almost the only time that I chop parsley very finely).

Steam is an option for any type of new potatoes, but I remain skeptical and mine bake in water deep and almost as salty as you would use for boiling pasta. I seriously doubt the sanity of anyone who peels away the new potatoes. The skin is tender, tasty and so thin you could rub off it with your thumb.

A few "new" potatoes are no such thing. Many are simply small potatoes with skins thick and tight and even the odd eye. They taste no better than a large main crop potato and do not have the quality dry and mealy great that make these fluffy mash and roast. Throw everything that you have on them - throw them in melted butter, their shower with salt, dip into cream fresh and chopped chives or Chervil.

A true new potatoes or Jersey Royal must almost no embellishment. I like a thin layer of soft, almost melted butter, but even this is not necessary. I'll take the Mint very despised option, too, either by adding three strands to the cooking water, or by folding in a Dutch Mint butter or herb. They need without pepper.

You can roast a new potato, too, in which case his flesh shall on the texture of fudge. Sweet little nuggets to sit next to a piece of baked salmon or a rack of lamb. Salt and Rosemary are a good idea. Add Pink garlic of the new season, nestled among the tatties as they roast. They never fight a big roastie Sunday, but these are for another occasion. Alternatively, you can fry a new potato. Steam or boil them first, then Brown in a dish deep foaming butter. They colored deliciously and nutty quality will be highlighting, but it is unlikely the accuracy. No matter, they will be fabulous.

Sometimes, I have added to their nutty flavor by throwing pine nuts or hazelnuts into the Pan because they FRY. Potato soft, Golden and the scrunch of nuts is pleasing enough, but we have recently added a few deep-golden yolks, release of a pan of crisp sauteed Jersey Royals, finish briefly under the broiler until yolks have been hot but still oozingly liquid. It adds a touch of summer sun.

When the new potatoes are roasted, they take a texture soft, fudgy, making it especially suited to a crisp as partner for example here, toasted hazelnuts. This is suitable for a light lunch with a Frisee salad, or even as a side dish. 2-4 Persons.

500 g new potatoes
75 g butter
peanut or olive oil
100 g hazelnuts
chopped chives 4 tbsp
egg yolks 4

Wash and coarsely chop the potatoes. Heat butter with a couple of glugs of oil in a dish to roast on a moderate heat, add the potatoes, then let them FRY at a gentle sizzling carefully Brown everywhere.

Roughly chop the hazelnuts, add them to the potatoes and let them colour slightly, then lightly season with salt, pepper and chives and tip them into a dish in the oven.

Break the eggs and the yellows of immerse potatoes then place under a hot grill for 3-4 minutes until the yolks are hot but not together.

New potatoes, tuna salad and cucumber by Nigel Slater. Photography: Jonathan Lovekin for the observer

Rethink the summer classic. More than canned tuna are now labeled from sustainable sources, but it is worth. 2 Servings.

250 g new potatoes
cucumber 1 medium
a pinch of powdered sugar
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Spoon 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard
olive oil 1 tbsp
2 tbsp dill , chopped
Nicoise olives 4 tbsp
125 g of tuna in olive oil

Wipe the potato, remove any loose flocons flakes of skin, Cook then in a large quantity of salted water until just tender. Lightly Peel the cucumber, coupees cut in half lengthwise, then scrape the seeds and pulp from the Center with a teaspoon, reserving them for the dressing. Cut the cucumber into finger thick pieces and place in a large mixing bowl.

Make the dressing: put a pinch of sugar powder in a blender or food processor, add the vinegar, mustard, a pinch of salt and pepper and reserved seeds and the cucumber pulp. Pour the olive oil and the blitz briefly to a smooth sauce. Tip in the cucumber, add the chopped dill and stir.

Drain the potatoes, then cut each of them into about four thick pieces. While potatoes are warm, add them to the cucumber and toss with the dressing. Drain the tuna canned and basically add pieces, turning all carefully so they are evenly coated. Sprinkle on olives.

Nigel an email at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk

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