
Lunch, at least at the end of week, moved to the garden. To be more precise, it has left the kitchen table for a under a tree, where we can eat outdoors, but hidden by the glare of the Sun.
For eating out, I like the idea of a dish of great service of food rather than do battle with trying to get individual portions of hob at the garden. More than that, I like the idea of food passed around the table from one person to another, with each taking only what they want. I appreciate the informality of a meal served in this way. The person next to you the hand of food and there is an immediate feeling of sharing.
There is very little plates in this House big enough to be declared a 'flat '. Maybe a couple who held enough food for six or eight, even if it is many trays to a song of second hand. But there are other possibilities, a size of around Brie tart, from the kitchen on its base pot, presented with a knife for each person to cut what they want. Served cake first pass-the-parcel, or, easier style, a huge bowl full of original and unusual fruit salad. All your friends can plunge as they wish.
Savoury summer tart is still a success for this type of meal: it can be cooked before friends arrive (the dough can even be made the day before), it can be kept warm without coming to grief and the remains are very well served cold the next day.
Summer savory pie fillings are different from what I do for a fall or winter. Onions that I Cook slowly until that sweet and amber are replaced, if used at all, by Rose-rinse the fine cut spring onions. The herbs will be more delicate and probably based on anise: Chervil or tarragon instead of thyme or finely chopped Rosemary. The linings will be of summer vegetables and seafood, such as crab - using Brown - and white meat or salmon and watercress. Sweet flavors, delicate colours.
Last week, I had a tasty pie deep in Helsinki, I ordered more out of curiosity than anything else. Asparagus works so well in a fill with quiche, but blue cheese, too? My assumption that cheese could suffocate almost shy flavour of grass 'Sparrow' disproved. The result was sublime, so I'm bringing the idea of home. And I serve it in all its glory not circumcised, so that everyone can go home, cutting each other, as they wish, then pass to another. A dish to get everyone talking and, above all, sharing.
You can use the Roquefort, of course, but the other blues such as Stichelton, Stilton, Beenleigh and Crozier will work just fine, too. Use everything seems good. Due to the deep flavor, you need very little. Need you a pie Pan 22cm with a removable base. The basis of the dough should be quite peppery, but is calmed by the custard filling. Serves 8.
For the dough:
90 g butter , cold fridge
150 g all-purpose flour
egg yolk 1
black pepper 1 tablespoon very coarsely ground coffee
For the filling:
12 asparagus
300 ml double cream
eggs 2
Roquefort or other blue cheese 200 g
Make the dough. Cut the butter into small cubes and rub it into the flour with the fingertips, or reduce to fine crumbs in a food processor. Add egg yolk, pepper and a tablespoon or two of water and bring the mix to a stiff dough, same texture. Wrap the brioche and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Set the oven to 200 c/gas thermostat 6.
Bring a pot of water to boil, cut the asparagus in small lengths and cook in boiling water furiously for 5 minutes or so until this that almost tender, then remove it with a spoon of drainage. (It will get another cooking in the oven). Make the flan beating eggs very slightly in the cream and season with black pepper and, depending on how dirty your blue cheese is a little salt.
The case of tart with the dough, ensuring that you pushed the pastry line deep into the corners and that there absolutely no tears or cracks. Line with greaseproof paper and baking beans and cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes, carefully remove the beans and return the case of dough to pie in the oven for a further 5 minutes or until the dough is dry to the touch.
Turn on the oven to 180 c/gas mark 4. Place the asparagus in the case of the pie dough, then crumble the Roquefort cheese on top. Pour the cream in the pastry case and transfer carefully to the oven and bake for about 40 minutes. Let cool a little, then transfer to a plate.

I know this sounds extraordinary, but it is incisive fruit salad, more refreshing imaginable. Strawberry and cucumber work wonderfully with the syrup. It's summer in a bowl. And if you can't really handle the idea of cucumber, then it is jolly good with strawberries and bananas.
For the syrup:
3 tablespoons honey
Mint 10
elderflower cordial 5 tbsp
2 cucumbers , average
450 g strawberries
Put honey, mint and elderberry syrup in a blender and blitz to a syrup, thick and fragrant. If you don't have a blender, chop Mint very finely, mix with the honey and cordial, and then leave it for an hour. Filter through a sieve or muslin to remove Mint.
Peel cucumbers, cut them in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon. Dice the flesh finely and place in a large bowl. Remove the leaves of strawberries, slice the fruit in half and gently mix with the cucumber.
Pour the currency and the flower of elderberry syrup in the fruit, stir very gently, then leave for about 30 minutes, in the refrigerator and cover, before serving.
Nigel an email at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk
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