The asparagus has finally arrived, and I could not be happier. It has been considered a delicacy for thousands of years: back in Roman times, the emperor Augustus had an asparagus guard, whose job it was to collect his favourite vegetable and bring it to him. This year the season has been so late that I’ve been on the verge of sending a guard of my own off down to the Wye Valley to collect the first spears.
Asparagus and eggs work brilliantly together. Whether you’re just putting a fried egg atop a pile of freshly boiled buttery asparagus, or creating something a little more involved, such as this delicious Italian frittata with asparagus and marjoram, it’s a perfect pairing. My asparagus and duck egg salad is always a hit too, proof that the spears don’t get lost alongside more bolshie partners like bacon, pickles, capers and mustard.
Sometimes, particularly later in the season, I use asparagus as an accompaniment rather than the main dish. This might seem a little extravagant – although the price does drop after a few weeks – but it’s worth it. The cod cooks in the bag with the asparagus and they exchange their delicate flavours beautifully. Seasoned with orange, thyme and chilli, it produces a simple but classy dinner. That’s pretty much the essence of asparagus: simple and classy. A doddle to cook, too.
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